Real freedom on Mt.Temple

While skiing thousand of times at Lake Louise I was looking at Mt.Temple with an awe, and always wondered how would feel to step on the summit of this magnificent mountain.

This is how tourists see Mt.Temple from Lake Louise ski resort

Finally, I decided to do it this summer and after climbing a couple of smaller mountains in June and July, the D-day was set - July 27th.
This time, our little team was comprised of 4 members - beside Mike, Gennady and me, we had my friend Gyula join us for this little climbing adventure.

Gyula, Gennady, Mike, BB

For those who don't know mountains and for those who do, Mt.Temple has been climbed many times, using different routes. So called "tourist" route is the easiest one, but it would be foolish to underestimate it. It is a tough scramble, emphasized by 1700 m elevation gain in only 8 km, and couple of exposed sections that require some climbing skills. The climb requires a helmet, an ice axe, and crampons, depending on the time of climbing. It is also prudent to carry some rope as it could be very helpful on exposed sections.

"Tourist" route (click on the picture to see bigger size)

Bottom line is, don't underestimate the mountain. Don't underestimate any mountain.

Mt.Temple is the 6th highest mountain in Alberta, only 204 m "shorter" then the highest Alberta peak, Mount Columbia.

We left Banff early so that we can start our climb early - again one of basic rules for mountain climbing. Give yourself an extra time as you never know when you'll need it. We left Moraine lake parking lot at 6:50 AM, and there were already 2 bigger groups of climbers in front of us.

"Boring" phase of the climb

We were quickly advancing trough forest towards the Larch Valley, and this was quite boring part of the climb. It is always boring to climb through forest, as you don't see anything. However, the morning was so fresh and air was tasty, and when we reached the Larch Valley, and when the view towards 10 peaks above the Valley of Ten Peaks opened up, we immediately increased usage of our photo cameras.

Continuing our trek, we were now able to see the west side of Mt.Temple that we'll be climbing soon. It still looked so little, from distance, but it was becoming bigger and bigger as we were getting closer to the steep switchback section towards the Sentinel Pass.

Advancing surely - Pinnacle mountain in front of us

Towards switchbacks to Sentinel Pass

View to the Valley of 10 Peaks

Lots of smiles

We passed between two little lakes, the bigger one being just below Mt.Pinnacle and at that moment I let my fellow climbers go in front of me, so that I could take some pictures of them - they looked so small comparing to Mt.Pinnacle on the left and Mt.Temple on the right. The switchbacks towards Sentinel Pass were (again) boring, but psychologically, we knew that very soon we'll start the 'real' climb, and that was somehow liberating.

We reached Sentinel Pass exactly 2 hrs since leaving Moraine Lake. We caught one group of climbers who started before us, but they were going to Paradise Valley - the other group was already far up, and I couldn't see them anymore.
There are amazing views from here, and especially at this early hour, when light played game of shadows. Nature is the only real owner of the Earth.

Paradise Valley

Gyula taking photos of Paradise Valley

This was in front of us

One side of Pinnacle mountain

Valley of 10 Peaks, lakes and Pinnacle

Gyula and I had to constantly wait for Mike and Gennady as their pace was much slower. We had to pay attention to this as demanding sections were in front of us.

From Sentinel Pass we advanced quickly over very steep and rocky section. At this point we put our helmets on, as we entered treacherous sections. Gyula was climbing very quickly, but at one point he missed a route, climbed too high and got stuck in this steep, scree covered gully. He even started a solid rock slide that fortunately missed me. At that moment, I quickly traversed that section, and then waited for Gyula to climb down and join me at this point.

You can see Gyula at the top right, in a "scree" river

Some posing - Pinnacle mountain

Scrambling towards the crucifix section

Mike

Mike was very strong

When we reached "first grey rock band", we stopped and waited for Mike and Gennady as at this point climbers could be lured by the long traverse, that would result with much tougher cliff bands to climb.

It was not only them to arrive to this point - a young couple also showed up, and that was nothing surprising, except that the girl was pregnant! We chatted a bit, and we learned that she was due in 3 months - I thought, "This is quite amazing". I am not sure that I would take Ada to climb such a tough mountain if she were 6 months pregnant.
Nevertheless, we continued our climb - I was now a sweeper, and I had to "push" the pregnant girl at the next very steep section. Good thing was that she knew what she was doing.

Very soon, after we passed snow covered gully, we encountered the "crucifix" of this route. Again, for real climbers, this is very little annoyance. However, for everyone else, it could be life endangering.
It is called "5 and 3 steps", as you have to vertically climb two rocks - this is not much at any standard, but it is very exposed. If you crash here, you could end up flying hundreds of meters towards the bottom.

Mike, climbing the "5 step"

Advancing on "easy" section

Gyula and Mike on the toughest part

It is not too tough, but....

Gyula went first, and then Mike, using the same route. Gennady went through a "chimney" section, but he had to remove his backpack, as it was too narrow. He also left his trekking polls, so I climbed with them.

After this 'dangerous' section, we continued the grind. It was getting colder and colder. This mountain also requires good finding route skills. You also have to memorize the route for descend, and this is of paramount importance in a bad weather.

We followed the cairned trail to the ridge crest, by ascending the rock steps. We stayed to the side of the gully, as we wanted to play safe, just in case if anyone were in front of, in case of rock slides.

The ridge. Still long way to the top.

Paradise Valley

Gyula on the Ridge

Gyula conquering the ridge

Mt.Pinnacle looks so little from this point

Finally, the summit ridge came into view. There were 2 guys there, resting - they were on their way back.
I must say that I wished we were going back, as when looking to the ridge above me, I was thinking how we are going to climb it.
It looked brutally steep and long.
When Gyula and I started climbing it, it proved to be even harder, as loose scree didn't give us any footing. It was as we were climbing in quick sand. At this point we didn't wait for Mike and Gennady as it was taking too much time for them to climb. They were way below, but they were climbing together, and at their pace.

It was getting even colder, so I put my jacket on, but I was lazy to put long pants on. It will turn out later that I shouldn't have been that lazy.

"Baby" couple and Gyula

Gyula advancing despite cramps

It is damn steep!

Another fake smile  :)

I was climbing the ridge using my "100 steps and rest" technique. I stayed close to the ridge as the footing was better there. Gyula and I climbed together for next 250 vertical meters, and then he had to slow down as he was getting cramps. I guess my friend didn't drink enough water. He told me to go without him, and that he would catch up.

I thought I would wait for him at the false summit so that we "attack" the summit together. My legs were heavy, and my heart rate was in a red zone. I had to lower down number of my steps to 50. I kept looking high up and I was able to see the amazing "baby" couple. They were advancing slowly but surely. I was almost catching them, but on the false summit I waited for Gyula. We did a little "interview" there, and continued conquering the ridge. From this point we still had around 150 vertical meters.
This certainly doesn't sound too much, but we already did 1550 m in some 5 hrs, so it was evident that this last section was a giant grind. It was not that steep as the long false summit ridge section, but it was nevertheless long.

Bravo Gyula!!

Time of arrival

Bravo me!  :) (And fake smile)

Wandering around, on the top

Gyula - self portrait, on the top of Mt.Temple

Gyula had to slow down, but we were almost on the top. Once I reached it, I was free, happy, tired, cold, and I wasn't king of the world. Ah, I wished I had my long pants on, as wind was punishing my exposed skin on my legs. I also haven't used my gloves until this point so my hands were freezing - so much that it was hard to hold my photo camera.

The baby couple congratulated me, and vice-versa, and I was totally amazed by this girl. It was something I will remember for a long time.

Then Gyula arrived - my friend conquered this big mountain despite nasty cramps that he had to battle on the ridge. I knew he would make it, as I don't know anyone that strong.

We photographed each other, did some other photo shots and videos, and very soon we started our descent. It was too cold to hang out on the top of Mt.Temple. The wind was too strong. I (finally) put gaiters on (not long pants), and my gloves - thinking why I didn't do it earlier. Well, I learned my lesson, again.

We knew that Mike and Gennady will have to turn back, as it was getting too late, and they were probably at least 1.5 hrs behind us. It would be too long for us to wait for them at the crucifix section. We would be freezing.

We met them some 300 vertical meters from the summit. They were progressing slowly, and they left their backpacks at the start of the ridge. At that moment they made the right decision - they joined us in descent.

I am not going to write about the descent. It was long and tough, and our knees and joints were in lots of pain. It was also interesting at the crucifix section as we had to use ropes to lower Mike and Gennady. Good thing was that nobody got hurt and that we executed everything properly.

This is what Mt.Temple can do to you :)

Mt.Temple is not technically difficult mountain, but it will drain you. It will show you who is the boss. It will give you a different view to nature, and power of nature. It will also give you a joy of real freedom, and a real connection with the nature. It will seduce you and lure you to come again.