Fantastic day on Mt. Bourgeau

Mt. Bourgeau - view from Tunnel mountain

We left Banff at 7:50 AM, and already at 8:06 AM we started our spring ascent to Mt. Bourgeau. Weather was good, relatively warm, and sunny. However we knew that there will be big fluctuations in weather patterns and that we might experience all seasons in next 12 hours. We were all smiles at the Bourgeau gate, as we knew that we had an extraordinary day in front of us.

I was hoping to be back by 8 PM.

It was so ancestry to connect with the nature, and we were advancing rapidly. Green colour, fresh air, scents of nature were addictive, and we were reconnecting with times when we didn't have iPhone, iPad, Facebook, and everything else that 21st century introduced to us. It took us little bit more than 40 minutes to reach the first little bridge over Wolverine Creek.

All smiles at Bourgeau gate

Our "official" start time

It was quiet, as it can only be in such a forest, but yet loud with all noises, resulting in perfect mountain cacophony.

Mt. Bourgeau was still far - white and gigantic

First bridge over Wolverine creek

In next 35 minutes we reached the second crossing of Bourgeau lake outflow, Wolverine creek. I noticed that the rangers made sure that the "bridge" withstands all water assaults. In the past this was one of those "hot spots", when water power wouldn't allow us to go further.

After the second bridge, the trail becomes steeper, and it demands more energy.

Second "bridge" over Wolverine creek

We were quickly advancing, but I knew that this idyllic climb will change into something more challenging soon. We were already encountering mud and snow on the trail, and with every switchback, there was more and more of it, especially snow. In next half an hour we reached the Bourgeau lake meadows. It took as a little bit more than two hours to reach the lake plateau. Of course, there were no flowers, nothing was green yet - it was still all covered in snow, and only green colour came from evergreen trees.

Still lots of snow on the trail

Snow and mud made the ascent harder

Bourgeau Lake meadows - still early for flowers

Evergreen trees at Bourgeau Lake meadows

As we already walked through deep snow, and as we knew what was coming, it was time to put on gaiters and waterproof pants. We also had to put our tuques on, as it became windy. It was out first real break.

Our next step was to reach "the entrance" to steep trail towards Harvey pass, and for that we had couple of options. Normally, in late July and August, you just follow the trail and men made wooden path, or walk by the lake, until you reach the end of it, and a sign that gives you direction to Harvey pass. Some people climb towards Mt. Breth, on the right hand side, to gain some altitude, but that's really not necessary in perfect conditions, as it is very steep and demanding. We tried to follow the wooden path, but we lost it, as snow was getting too deep. It was getting harder and harder to navigate through it.

It looks easy, but it was not that easy - crossing the lake meadows flats

Testing hardness of the snow

At this moment we still didn't know that we'll get stuck here

We were getting stuck in this spring snow, and we were struggling to move forward. Even walking close to the trees wasn't helping, as inevitably, all of us would fall through the snow. This was quite hard and we were getting tired. I wished we had snowshoes. I recommended that we try going to the right, on Mt. Breth side, climb into one of the couloirs, and once we are above the tree line, simply go left, towards Harvey pass trail.

One of the couloirs on Mt.Breth that we followed

Gaining altitude

It was quite steep

Mt.Bourgeau and Bourgeau Lake from Mt.Breth

Navigating our way towards Harvey Pass trail

Finally! Harvey Pass trail - and 2 climbers who ascended directly from the lake

We did exactly that, climbed into one of Mt.Breth couloirs, climbed some 150 m, and then cut to the left, maintaining the altitude, until we saw the Harvey pass trail, when we descended a bit, passing another couloir. This was a bit unnerving as there were hundreds of rocks on the snow, and we had to move fast. Many accidents happen because of fallen rocks.

It took us around half an hour to reach the original trail that leads to Harvey Pass. While we were stuck in the forest in meadows we heard voices, and we thought that we were imagining, but I noticed 2 climbers who were advancing up on the Harvey pass trail, a bit on front of us. It seemed that they somehow climbed the original route, around and from the lake. It also looked that they were quite strong climbers, as I could tell, that these guys were fast. I thought that this might help us as it will be them making first steps, and actually "painting" a route for us. Funny, how these things happen - there is always some luck involved!
Weather was changing as well, as more and more clouds were coming our way.

Still all smiles

First unnamed lake towards Harvey Pass

This where we were going to make a big U-turn

Snow was harder on steeper surfaces

This required a lot of balance

Second unnamed lake

We followed the steps of these 2 climbers in now even deeper snow, and we were taking now more often breaks. It was much steeper. I was leading and I was eager to reach the first, unnamed lake after Bourgeau lake as soon as possible. By reaching this lake we would reach the first of couple of milestones on our climb. After this lake, after making a big U-turn, it was possible to "smell" Harvey Lake and Harvey Pass.

We were advancing slowly, but we were going forward. It was really hard to go through deep snow. The snow was not hard enough to withstand our weight, and there was really no pattern - when you would end up deep to your hips in the snow, or you could execute a normal step. Some areas were barren, but in order to get there, we would still have to climb through deep snow, so we chose to follow 2 climbers who were advancing in front of us. I was still able to see them, and they were reaching flats of Harvey Pass.

Advancing towards Harvey Pass

Deep snow slowed us down and made everything extremely hard

Second unnamed lake from above

Harvey Pass!

Finally on the pass - Ocean of mountains appeared

Snow that feeds Harvey Lake

I pushed, left Mike and Gennady behind me, as I wanted to reach Harvey Pass by 1:30 PM. It was unbelievable, but it took us 3 hrs from Bourgeau Lake to the pass! Normally, it could be done in less than an hour. Deep snow really slowed us down. I had to put another layer on me, as the wind picked up, and that was normal, as it was all open now, on the pass. I was able to see the sea of mountains in front of me, and on the left, Mt. Bourgeau ridge.

Bourgeau ridge

It took 15 minutes for Mike and Gennady to join me on Harvey pass. We were slow, as it was already 1:45 PM, so we decided to have lunch, and leave for summit at 2:15 PM. We didn't know how much time we would need to get to the top as we didn't know how much snow was after and between false summits. From here, it looked pretty clear.
We found a natural shelter behind couple of rocks, on the first flat part of the ridge. It was nice feeling to sit down and rest a bit. I was feeling pain in my right heal, as I was developing a blister. It seemed that the new boots "kicked in" - not in a way how I wanted it  :(.

Above Harvey Pass, on Bourgeau ridge

Lunch

On second false summit

It was also so good to eat some solid food, and I thought how good this break would've been if we had warmer weather and if there was no wind. By now, the wind was very strong and actually it strength increased. Also, weather was changing as there were more and more clouds, and they appeared on lower altitude.
We decided that our cut-off time will be 3:30 PM - we would stop our ascent and turned back. I was happy that we made this decision as it was really getting worse, but I was eager to go, as I wanted to reach the summit.
I was not able to see other 2 climbers - they disappeared behind one of false summits. I thought that we would see them shortly, on their way down, and on our way up. We couldn't miss them, except if they decided to descend on a south side.

It was a grinding climb on the ridge

Deep below us - Bourgeau Lake

North side cornices

We finally departed our shelter at 2:15 PM, and I went up the ridge as fast I could. Gennady was following, couple of minutes behind me, and Mike was a bit farther. Wind was super strong, but it was a tail wind so that I didn't feel it. Nevertheless, I was wearing now full blown clothes, with water proof wind breaker and thick toque. Climbing the Bourgeau ridge is a long grinding task. It is not too steep, but at the same time, it is not flat. It also requires constant attention, as it is easy to make misstep and possibly injure yourself.

After final false summit

Grind

You never know what will next false summit bring

We made sure to stay in the middle of the ridge

Final descent after last false summit before a final ascent

I was doing 100 steps and then I would take a little rest. Then again 100 steps and rest. And so on. Gennady and Mike were following. I felt a bit of pain in my lungs - remnants of nasty flu that brought me down in May.

After some 50 minutes we finally met two climbers who were in front of us. Obviously they were descending. They told us that there was a lot of snow on the final ascent, but that they left us nice path. I was thinking that we were actually lucky to have someone to go there first.

After we passed the second false summit, the footing became much harder. We had to stay on the right hand side of the ridge, as the left one was dangerous with numerous cornices. The right side was very steep with small and big rocks that were covered with snow. It required some luck to find the best footing. This was the most challenging part of the climb so far - and when I passed the third false summit, I was finally able to see the real summit of Mt. Bourgeau. I could see the top of the weather station antenna on the summit.
The summit was so close, that's how it looked like, but I knew that we still had to climb at least for 40 minutes, and it was already passed 3 PM. This was the steepest part of our today's climb.

Towards the summit

This was the hardest section

It looked like as the summit was running away

Weather station - finally!

While waiting for Gennady and Mike I rested a bit. When they finally joined me at the bottom of the final slope, Mike said that he would not go to the summit. He decided to turn back and start his descent. Gennady and myself agreed with this choice - we had radios so we would be able to communicate, in case that something goes wrong. Mike only said: "You guys will catch up anyway. I will see you soon".
And then he disappeared behind the third false summit on his descent.

Gennady and I continued our climb. I was leading it, and first we descended a bit, to reach the south slope, as we were going to attack the summit from there. We didn't want to take a direct straight line, as that way would bring us too close to the north side cornices.

Good thing was that the snow was harder on a higher altitude

Rough terrain required constant attention

Weather disoriented 

Did I say that I wished we had snowshoes?

When I thought that the ridge climb was a grind, I should've thought about this real grind. Obviously we were already very tired, after more than 7 hours of climbing, and this side was quite steep with lots of snow. Good thing was that the snow was much harder here, so we didn't fall through that much as at lower altitudes.
I was still doing my 100 steps and then break. I decided to do it 5 times in a row without looking up - I was hoping that I would be at the top by some miracle, if I didn't look up.
When I finally looked towards the summit, nothing changed - as I didn't move at all. And my legs were so heavy and my breathing was heavy too. Gennady was far behind me, probably some 10 minutes behind. I decided to do 50 steps with a break in between. This was working, but I was advancing very slowly.

After some good 40 minutes I was able to see the weather station. Finally! I almost sprinted towards it. Wind was even stronger, and it started snowing, and I wasn't able to see mountains around us anymore, as clouds descended. I looked at my watch, and it was 3:56 PM. I was on the top of Mt. Bourgeau.

After almost 8 hours I was at the top

We broke our cut off time, and it was quite late. We still had to go back. I was thinking that we would need at least 5 hours to reach the bottom of the mountain.
As it was getting really cold, and as Gennady still didn't show up, and as I couldn't see him, I descended a bit. He was advancing slowly, and some 100 m before the summit he dropped his backpack and finally reached the weather station. I asked him to be quick as we had to go back. By now, it was very dark, very windy, and snow was dense.

East side of the ridge and huge cornices

Summit!

We left the summit at 4:12 PM. The first steep, southern slope was easy to navigate - it was almost as riding the waves. Snow was deep, and and I was thinking how much fun would be if we had our skis.

Descending the ridge was quite tiring - I wanted to go faster but my legs didn't listen. When we reached Harvey pass, we still had to go through tons of snow. And it was harder now, as we were even more tired. I started cramping up, my hamstrings were not listening anymore, so I was fighting to keep moving. Again, for who knows how many times, I learned that I haven't drunk enough water.

We tried calling Mike, but without success. I was a bit worried, but I knew somehow that we'll see him soon.

On our way back, passing Harvey pass

This was the hardest part - deep, soft snow

It was easier to navigate some sections on our bottoms!

Weather was changing every half an hour

Advancing towards Bourgeau Lake

We saw him just below the first unnamed lake - he was laying down on grass, on this steep slope, and he was eating chocolate - how accommodating! At that moment it started raining. But that really didn't matter anymore. We accomplished our goal, we reached the summit, and also we were still doing what we loved to do.

Last challenge was going through meadows - snow didn't melt since we passed here in the morning  :), so we had to grind it again. However, we were much faster now, as we had a new goal - reach the bottom of the mountain.

It was not simple climbing down

Again, sliding down on our bottoms  :)

Pain, pain, pain

Final snow on our descent

The biggest challenge was deep snow

I guess I had enough of snow for a while

After navigating through rocks, snow, trees, bush, we were finally on the original trail. I was thinking that we "only" had to walk next 7.4 km. I knew that this will be demanding too, as we were quite tired. I must say that I was right, as the last couple kilometers were so long that I was asking if we'll ever see the gate.

Finally, some other colour than white

It took us 12 hours and 25 minutes (normally, it is between 9 and 10 hours)

Tired

Finally, the last member of our "expedition" is back

I don't have to describe my feelings once I passed and closed the Bourgeau gate. It was 8:31 PM. We were back after 12 hours and 25 minutes.

It was one great and fantastic day.