Thursday, June 12, 2008

The god of the snowy mountains

We decided to go to Yunnan province, instead of Tibet - as it is still hard to obtain a Tibet Pass. It turned out that it was our best decision!

We took a flight from Beijing to provincial capital Kunming, slept there one night and the next day took a flight to Shangri-La, mystical city in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition. The city is a real thing though - it really exists - and it posses all the mystic qualities one would seek for.
There is too much to write about this part of the world, so I will only write about one magnificient peak, that I thought it only comes alive in dreams - and yet, it came for real.
I will disclose some information about Meili Snow Mountain, and its highest peak, Kabego.
What can I say about my feelings, once I saw it, once I was so close to it? Well, if a nature is a mother, it shows is in its the most beautiful light there - I felt so little and so small - just by seeing it, by watching it, and after we learned about the mountain itself, we perhaps learned what allones is.


Kagebo, which means white snow mountain in Tibetan, is considered the god of the snowy mountains and a sacred place of pilgrimage for Tibetan Buddhism. A local tale tells how Kagebo became the patron saint of Jiajuba, a branch of Ningma School. Originally Kagebo was an evil spirit with 9 heads and 18 bodies. After been converted by Budda Padmasambhava, Kagebo became shipped by Tibetan people, usually Kagebo rode a white horse with a sword in hand. His majestic appearance was similar to that of the peak. It is said that if you climb to the top of the Potala Palace, you will see the shadow of Kagebo through the colorful clouds. Every year during the end of autumn and the beginning of winter, thousands of Tibetan Buddhists walk to Kagebo. During the year of the sheep in the Tibetan calendar, the number of adherents will multiply and the spectacle is very grand.

Kagebo Peak has been described as the most beautiful peak in the world by Joseph F. Rocker, American explorer and botanist. In 1986, the Panchen Lama Jianzeng once held rituals there. As usual, Meili Snow Mountain was enveloped in layers of clouds and mist. But as soon as the Panchen Lama recited scriptures and sprinkled some holy water, the clouds parted and Kagebo emerged from the mist. This has become a widespread legend among local people.

Mingyong Glacier sits at the foot of Kagebo Peak and looks like a long piece of white silk. Running from 5,500 meters down to 2,700 meters, only 800 meters above Lancang River, Mingyong is one of the few low altitude glaciers in the world. There is a 40km ride between Deqin and Mingyong Village, and then you can walk or rent a horse to get to the glacier. As the weather was changing we couldn't do much exploring, so we didn't go there.

In the south of Kagebo Peak is a waterfall, named Yubenshenpu (holy collapsing rain), coming down from a 1,000m high cliff. It is said that to be drenched b the water here will bring you good luck.

Kagebo is still a virgin peak, unconquered by mountaineers. Since the first effort was made by a British climbing team in 1902, Americans, Japanese, and Chinese climbers have all tried to scale the mountain, but all attempts have ended in failure. A joint effort by Chinese and Japanese climbers to reach the summit in January 1991 ended in tragedy when all the team’s members died in an accident. Their remains were not found until July 1998. An old man told us with a warning tone as a god: "How can human beings step on a god??"

No comments: