Real freedom on Mt.Temple

While skiing thousand of times at Lake Louise I was looking at Mt.Temple with an awe, and always wondered how would feel to step on the summit of this magnificent mountain.

This is how tourists see Mt.Temple from Lake Louise ski resort

Finally, I decided to do it this summer and after climbing a couple of smaller mountains in June and July, the D-day was set - July 27th.
This time, our little team was comprised of 4 members - beside Mike, Gennady and me, we had my friend Gyula join us for this little climbing adventure.

Gyula, Gennady, Mike, BB

For those who don't know mountains and for those who do, Mt.Temple has been climbed many times, using different routes. So called "tourist" route is the easiest one, but it would be foolish to underestimate it. It is a tough scramble, emphasized by 1700 m elevation gain in only 8 km, and couple of exposed sections that require some climbing skills. The climb requires a helmet, an ice axe, and crampons, depending on the time of climbing. It is also prudent to carry some rope as it could be very helpful on exposed sections.

"Tourist" route (click on the picture to see bigger size)

Bottom line is, don't underestimate the mountain. Don't underestimate any mountain.

Mt.Temple is the 6th highest mountain in Alberta, only 204 m "shorter" then the highest Alberta peak, Mount Columbia.

We left Banff early so that we can start our climb early - again one of basic rules for mountain climbing. Give yourself an extra time as you never know when you'll need it. We left Moraine lake parking lot at 6:50 AM, and there were already 2 bigger groups of climbers in front of us.

"Boring" phase of the climb

We were quickly advancing trough forest towards the Larch Valley, and this was quite boring part of the climb. It is always boring to climb through forest, as you don't see anything. However, the morning was so fresh and air was tasty, and when we reached the Larch Valley, and when the view towards 10 peaks above the Valley of Ten Peaks opened up, we immediately increased usage of our photo cameras.

Continuing our trek, we were now able to see the west side of Mt.Temple that we'll be climbing soon. It still looked so little, from distance, but it was becoming bigger and bigger as we were getting closer to the steep switchback section towards the Sentinel Pass.

Advancing surely - Pinnacle mountain in front of us

Towards switchbacks to Sentinel Pass

View to the Valley of 10 Peaks

Lots of smiles

We passed between two little lakes, the bigger one being just below Mt.Pinnacle and at that moment I let my fellow climbers go in front of me, so that I could take some pictures of them - they looked so small comparing to Mt.Pinnacle on the left and Mt.Temple on the right. The switchbacks towards Sentinel Pass were (again) boring, but psychologically, we knew that very soon we'll start the 'real' climb, and that was somehow liberating.

We reached Sentinel Pass exactly 2 hrs since leaving Moraine Lake. We caught one group of climbers who started before us, but they were going to Paradise Valley - the other group was already far up, and I couldn't see them anymore.
There are amazing views from here, and especially at this early hour, when light played game of shadows. Nature is the only real owner of the Earth.

Paradise Valley

Gyula taking photos of Paradise Valley

This was in front of us

One side of Pinnacle mountain

Valley of 10 Peaks, lakes and Pinnacle

Gyula and I had to constantly wait for Mike and Gennady as their pace was much slower. We had to pay attention to this as demanding sections were in front of us.

From Sentinel Pass we advanced quickly over very steep and rocky section. At this point we put our helmets on, as we entered treacherous sections. Gyula was climbing very quickly, but at one point he missed a route, climbed too high and got stuck in this steep, scree covered gully. He even started a solid rock slide that fortunately missed me. At that moment, I quickly traversed that section, and then waited for Gyula to climb down and join me at this point.

You can see Gyula at the top right, in a "scree" river

Some posing - Pinnacle mountain

Scrambling towards the crucifix section

Mike

Mike was very strong

When we reached "first grey rock band", we stopped and waited for Mike and Gennady as at this point climbers could be lured by the long traverse, that would result with much tougher cliff bands to climb.

It was not only them to arrive to this point - a young couple also showed up, and that was nothing surprising, except that the girl was pregnant! We chatted a bit, and we learned that she was due in 3 months - I thought, "This is quite amazing". I am not sure that I would take Ada to climb such a tough mountain if she were 6 months pregnant.
Nevertheless, we continued our climb - I was now a sweeper, and I had to "push" the pregnant girl at the next very steep section. Good thing was that she knew what she was doing.

Very soon, after we passed snow covered gully, we encountered the "crucifix" of this route. Again, for real climbers, this is very little annoyance. However, for everyone else, it could be life endangering.
It is called "5 and 3 steps", as you have to vertically climb two rocks - this is not much at any standard, but it is very exposed. If you crash here, you could end up flying hundreds of meters towards the bottom.

Mike, climbing the "5 step"

Advancing on "easy" section

Gyula and Mike on the toughest part

It is not too tough, but....

Gyula went first, and then Mike, using the same route. Gennady went through a "chimney" section, but he had to remove his backpack, as it was too narrow. He also left his trekking polls, so I climbed with them.

After this 'dangerous' section, we continued the grind. It was getting colder and colder. This mountain also requires good finding route skills. You also have to memorize the route for descend, and this is of paramount importance in a bad weather.

We followed the cairned trail to the ridge crest, by ascending the rock steps. We stayed to the side of the gully, as we wanted to play safe, just in case if anyone were in front of, in case of rock slides.

The ridge. Still long way to the top.

Paradise Valley

Gyula on the Ridge

Gyula conquering the ridge

Mt.Pinnacle looks so little from this point

Finally, the summit ridge came into view. There were 2 guys there, resting - they were on their way back.
I must say that I wished we were going back, as when looking to the ridge above me, I was thinking how we are going to climb it.
It looked brutally steep and long.
When Gyula and I started climbing it, it proved to be even harder, as loose scree didn't give us any footing. It was as we were climbing in quick sand. At this point we didn't wait for Mike and Gennady as it was taking too much time for them to climb. They were way below, but they were climbing together, and at their pace.

It was getting even colder, so I put my jacket on, but I was lazy to put long pants on. It will turn out later that I shouldn't have been that lazy.

"Baby" couple and Gyula

Gyula advancing despite cramps

It is damn steep!

Another fake smile  :)

I was climbing the ridge using my "100 steps and rest" technique. I stayed close to the ridge as the footing was better there. Gyula and I climbed together for next 250 vertical meters, and then he had to slow down as he was getting cramps. I guess my friend didn't drink enough water. He told me to go without him, and that he would catch up.

I thought I would wait for him at the false summit so that we "attack" the summit together. My legs were heavy, and my heart rate was in a red zone. I had to lower down number of my steps to 50. I kept looking high up and I was able to see the amazing "baby" couple. They were advancing slowly but surely. I was almost catching them, but on the false summit I waited for Gyula. We did a little "interview" there, and continued conquering the ridge. From this point we still had around 150 vertical meters.
This certainly doesn't sound too much, but we already did 1550 m in some 5 hrs, so it was evident that this last section was a giant grind. It was not that steep as the long false summit ridge section, but it was nevertheless long.

Bravo Gyula!!

Time of arrival

Bravo me!  :) (And fake smile)

Wandering around, on the top

Gyula - self portrait, on the top of Mt.Temple

Gyula had to slow down, but we were almost on the top. Once I reached it, I was free, happy, tired, cold, and I wasn't king of the world. Ah, I wished I had my long pants on, as wind was punishing my exposed skin on my legs. I also haven't used my gloves until this point so my hands were freezing - so much that it was hard to hold my photo camera.

The baby couple congratulated me, and vice-versa, and I was totally amazed by this girl. It was something I will remember for a long time.

Then Gyula arrived - my friend conquered this big mountain despite nasty cramps that he had to battle on the ridge. I knew he would make it, as I don't know anyone that strong.

We photographed each other, did some other photo shots and videos, and very soon we started our descent. It was too cold to hang out on the top of Mt.Temple. The wind was too strong. I (finally) put gaiters on (not long pants), and my gloves - thinking why I didn't do it earlier. Well, I learned my lesson, again.

We knew that Mike and Gennady will have to turn back, as it was getting too late, and they were probably at least 1.5 hrs behind us. It would be too long for us to wait for them at the crucifix section. We would be freezing.

We met them some 300 vertical meters from the summit. They were progressing slowly, and they left their backpacks at the start of the ridge. At that moment they made the right decision - they joined us in descent.

I am not going to write about the descent. It was long and tough, and our knees and joints were in lots of pain. It was also interesting at the crucifix section as we had to use ropes to lower Mike and Gennady. Good thing was that nobody got hurt and that we executed everything properly.

This is what Mt.Temple can do to you :)

Mt.Temple is not technically difficult mountain, but it will drain you. It will show you who is the boss. It will give you a different view to nature, and power of nature. It will also give you a joy of real freedom, and a real connection with the nature. It will seduce you and lure you to come again.

Fantastic day on Mt. Bourgeau

Mt. Bourgeau - view from Tunnel mountain

We left Banff at 7:50 AM, and already at 8:06 AM we started our spring ascent to Mt. Bourgeau. Weather was good, relatively warm, and sunny. However we knew that there will be big fluctuations in weather patterns and that we might experience all seasons in next 12 hours. We were all smiles at the Bourgeau gate, as we knew that we had an extraordinary day in front of us.

I was hoping to be back by 8 PM.

It was so ancestry to connect with the nature, and we were advancing rapidly. Green colour, fresh air, scents of nature were addictive, and we were reconnecting with times when we didn't have iPhone, iPad, Facebook, and everything else that 21st century introduced to us. It took us little bit more than 40 minutes to reach the first little bridge over Wolverine Creek.

All smiles at Bourgeau gate

Our "official" start time

It was quiet, as it can only be in such a forest, but yet loud with all noises, resulting in perfect mountain cacophony.

Mt. Bourgeau was still far - white and gigantic

First bridge over Wolverine creek

In next 35 minutes we reached the second crossing of Bourgeau lake outflow, Wolverine creek. I noticed that the rangers made sure that the "bridge" withstands all water assaults. In the past this was one of those "hot spots", when water power wouldn't allow us to go further.

After the second bridge, the trail becomes steeper, and it demands more energy.

Second "bridge" over Wolverine creek

We were quickly advancing, but I knew that this idyllic climb will change into something more challenging soon. We were already encountering mud and snow on the trail, and with every switchback, there was more and more of it, especially snow. In next half an hour we reached the Bourgeau lake meadows. It took as a little bit more than two hours to reach the lake plateau. Of course, there were no flowers, nothing was green yet - it was still all covered in snow, and only green colour came from evergreen trees.

Still lots of snow on the trail

Snow and mud made the ascent harder

Bourgeau Lake meadows - still early for flowers

Evergreen trees at Bourgeau Lake meadows

As we already walked through deep snow, and as we knew what was coming, it was time to put on gaiters and waterproof pants. We also had to put our tuques on, as it became windy. It was out first real break.

Our next step was to reach "the entrance" to steep trail towards Harvey pass, and for that we had couple of options. Normally, in late July and August, you just follow the trail and men made wooden path, or walk by the lake, until you reach the end of it, and a sign that gives you direction to Harvey pass. Some people climb towards Mt. Breth, on the right hand side, to gain some altitude, but that's really not necessary in perfect conditions, as it is very steep and demanding. We tried to follow the wooden path, but we lost it, as snow was getting too deep. It was getting harder and harder to navigate through it.

It looks easy, but it was not that easy - crossing the lake meadows flats

Testing hardness of the snow

At this moment we still didn't know that we'll get stuck here

We were getting stuck in this spring snow, and we were struggling to move forward. Even walking close to the trees wasn't helping, as inevitably, all of us would fall through the snow. This was quite hard and we were getting tired. I wished we had snowshoes. I recommended that we try going to the right, on Mt. Breth side, climb into one of the couloirs, and once we are above the tree line, simply go left, towards Harvey pass trail.

One of the couloirs on Mt.Breth that we followed

Gaining altitude

It was quite steep

Mt.Bourgeau and Bourgeau Lake from Mt.Breth

Navigating our way towards Harvey Pass trail

Finally! Harvey Pass trail - and 2 climbers who ascended directly from the lake

We did exactly that, climbed into one of Mt.Breth couloirs, climbed some 150 m, and then cut to the left, maintaining the altitude, until we saw the Harvey pass trail, when we descended a bit, passing another couloir. This was a bit unnerving as there were hundreds of rocks on the snow, and we had to move fast. Many accidents happen because of fallen rocks.

It took us around half an hour to reach the original trail that leads to Harvey Pass. While we were stuck in the forest in meadows we heard voices, and we thought that we were imagining, but I noticed 2 climbers who were advancing up on the Harvey pass trail, a bit on front of us. It seemed that they somehow climbed the original route, around and from the lake. It also looked that they were quite strong climbers, as I could tell, that these guys were fast. I thought that this might help us as it will be them making first steps, and actually "painting" a route for us. Funny, how these things happen - there is always some luck involved!
Weather was changing as well, as more and more clouds were coming our way.

Still all smiles

First unnamed lake towards Harvey Pass

This where we were going to make a big U-turn

Snow was harder on steeper surfaces

This required a lot of balance

Second unnamed lake

We followed the steps of these 2 climbers in now even deeper snow, and we were taking now more often breaks. It was much steeper. I was leading and I was eager to reach the first, unnamed lake after Bourgeau lake as soon as possible. By reaching this lake we would reach the first of couple of milestones on our climb. After this lake, after making a big U-turn, it was possible to "smell" Harvey Lake and Harvey Pass.

We were advancing slowly, but we were going forward. It was really hard to go through deep snow. The snow was not hard enough to withstand our weight, and there was really no pattern - when you would end up deep to your hips in the snow, or you could execute a normal step. Some areas were barren, but in order to get there, we would still have to climb through deep snow, so we chose to follow 2 climbers who were advancing in front of us. I was still able to see them, and they were reaching flats of Harvey Pass.

Advancing towards Harvey Pass

Deep snow slowed us down and made everything extremely hard

Second unnamed lake from above

Harvey Pass!

Finally on the pass - Ocean of mountains appeared

Snow that feeds Harvey Lake

I pushed, left Mike and Gennady behind me, as I wanted to reach Harvey Pass by 1:30 PM. It was unbelievable, but it took us 3 hrs from Bourgeau Lake to the pass! Normally, it could be done in less than an hour. Deep snow really slowed us down. I had to put another layer on me, as the wind picked up, and that was normal, as it was all open now, on the pass. I was able to see the sea of mountains in front of me, and on the left, Mt. Bourgeau ridge.

Bourgeau ridge

It took 15 minutes for Mike and Gennady to join me on Harvey pass. We were slow, as it was already 1:45 PM, so we decided to have lunch, and leave for summit at 2:15 PM. We didn't know how much time we would need to get to the top as we didn't know how much snow was after and between false summits. From here, it looked pretty clear.
We found a natural shelter behind couple of rocks, on the first flat part of the ridge. It was nice feeling to sit down and rest a bit. I was feeling pain in my right heal, as I was developing a blister. It seemed that the new boots "kicked in" - not in a way how I wanted it  :(.

Above Harvey Pass, on Bourgeau ridge

Lunch

On second false summit

It was also so good to eat some solid food, and I thought how good this break would've been if we had warmer weather and if there was no wind. By now, the wind was very strong and actually it strength increased. Also, weather was changing as there were more and more clouds, and they appeared on lower altitude.
We decided that our cut-off time will be 3:30 PM - we would stop our ascent and turned back. I was happy that we made this decision as it was really getting worse, but I was eager to go, as I wanted to reach the summit.
I was not able to see other 2 climbers - they disappeared behind one of false summits. I thought that we would see them shortly, on their way down, and on our way up. We couldn't miss them, except if they decided to descend on a south side.

It was a grinding climb on the ridge

Deep below us - Bourgeau Lake

North side cornices

We finally departed our shelter at 2:15 PM, and I went up the ridge as fast I could. Gennady was following, couple of minutes behind me, and Mike was a bit farther. Wind was super strong, but it was a tail wind so that I didn't feel it. Nevertheless, I was wearing now full blown clothes, with water proof wind breaker and thick toque. Climbing the Bourgeau ridge is a long grinding task. It is not too steep, but at the same time, it is not flat. It also requires constant attention, as it is easy to make misstep and possibly injure yourself.

After final false summit

Grind

You never know what will next false summit bring

We made sure to stay in the middle of the ridge

Final descent after last false summit before a final ascent

I was doing 100 steps and then I would take a little rest. Then again 100 steps and rest. And so on. Gennady and Mike were following. I felt a bit of pain in my lungs - remnants of nasty flu that brought me down in May.

After some 50 minutes we finally met two climbers who were in front of us. Obviously they were descending. They told us that there was a lot of snow on the final ascent, but that they left us nice path. I was thinking that we were actually lucky to have someone to go there first.

After we passed the second false summit, the footing became much harder. We had to stay on the right hand side of the ridge, as the left one was dangerous with numerous cornices. The right side was very steep with small and big rocks that were covered with snow. It required some luck to find the best footing. This was the most challenging part of the climb so far - and when I passed the third false summit, I was finally able to see the real summit of Mt. Bourgeau. I could see the top of the weather station antenna on the summit.
The summit was so close, that's how it looked like, but I knew that we still had to climb at least for 40 minutes, and it was already passed 3 PM. This was the steepest part of our today's climb.

Towards the summit

This was the hardest section

It looked like as the summit was running away

Weather station - finally!

While waiting for Gennady and Mike I rested a bit. When they finally joined me at the bottom of the final slope, Mike said that he would not go to the summit. He decided to turn back and start his descent. Gennady and myself agreed with this choice - we had radios so we would be able to communicate, in case that something goes wrong. Mike only said: "You guys will catch up anyway. I will see you soon".
And then he disappeared behind the third false summit on his descent.

Gennady and I continued our climb. I was leading it, and first we descended a bit, to reach the south slope, as we were going to attack the summit from there. We didn't want to take a direct straight line, as that way would bring us too close to the north side cornices.

Good thing was that the snow was harder on a higher altitude

Rough terrain required constant attention

Weather disoriented 

Did I say that I wished we had snowshoes?

When I thought that the ridge climb was a grind, I should've thought about this real grind. Obviously we were already very tired, after more than 7 hours of climbing, and this side was quite steep with lots of snow. Good thing was that the snow was much harder here, so we didn't fall through that much as at lower altitudes.
I was still doing my 100 steps and then break. I decided to do it 5 times in a row without looking up - I was hoping that I would be at the top by some miracle, if I didn't look up.
When I finally looked towards the summit, nothing changed - as I didn't move at all. And my legs were so heavy and my breathing was heavy too. Gennady was far behind me, probably some 10 minutes behind. I decided to do 50 steps with a break in between. This was working, but I was advancing very slowly.

After some good 40 minutes I was able to see the weather station. Finally! I almost sprinted towards it. Wind was even stronger, and it started snowing, and I wasn't able to see mountains around us anymore, as clouds descended. I looked at my watch, and it was 3:56 PM. I was on the top of Mt. Bourgeau.

After almost 8 hours I was at the top

We broke our cut off time, and it was quite late. We still had to go back. I was thinking that we would need at least 5 hours to reach the bottom of the mountain.
As it was getting really cold, and as Gennady still didn't show up, and as I couldn't see him, I descended a bit. He was advancing slowly, and some 100 m before the summit he dropped his backpack and finally reached the weather station. I asked him to be quick as we had to go back. By now, it was very dark, very windy, and snow was dense.

East side of the ridge and huge cornices

Summit!

We left the summit at 4:12 PM. The first steep, southern slope was easy to navigate - it was almost as riding the waves. Snow was deep, and and I was thinking how much fun would be if we had our skis.

Descending the ridge was quite tiring - I wanted to go faster but my legs didn't listen. When we reached Harvey pass, we still had to go through tons of snow. And it was harder now, as we were even more tired. I started cramping up, my hamstrings were not listening anymore, so I was fighting to keep moving. Again, for who knows how many times, I learned that I haven't drunk enough water.

We tried calling Mike, but without success. I was a bit worried, but I knew somehow that we'll see him soon.

On our way back, passing Harvey pass

This was the hardest part - deep, soft snow

It was easier to navigate some sections on our bottoms!

Weather was changing every half an hour

Advancing towards Bourgeau Lake

We saw him just below the first unnamed lake - he was laying down on grass, on this steep slope, and he was eating chocolate - how accommodating! At that moment it started raining. But that really didn't matter anymore. We accomplished our goal, we reached the summit, and also we were still doing what we loved to do.

Last challenge was going through meadows - snow didn't melt since we passed here in the morning  :), so we had to grind it again. However, we were much faster now, as we had a new goal - reach the bottom of the mountain.

It was not simple climbing down

Again, sliding down on our bottoms  :)

Pain, pain, pain

Final snow on our descent

The biggest challenge was deep snow

I guess I had enough of snow for a while

After navigating through rocks, snow, trees, bush, we were finally on the original trail. I was thinking that we "only" had to walk next 7.4 km. I knew that this will be demanding too, as we were quite tired. I must say that I was right, as the last couple kilometers were so long that I was asking if we'll ever see the gate.

Finally, some other colour than white

It took us 12 hours and 25 minutes (normally, it is between 9 and 10 hours)

Tired

Finally, the last member of our "expedition" is back

I don't have to describe my feelings once I passed and closed the Bourgeau gate. It was 8:31 PM. We were back after 12 hours and 25 minutes.

It was one great and fantastic day.