Thursday, December 6, 2018

Sarajevo Cable Car

When I was little and when I lived in the city that has always been at the centre and at the end of the world at the same time, I never knew I'd be writing about it.
By default, I took my hometown for granted, as all of us do, thinking that everything lasts forever. And as it always inevitably happens - our reality becomes quite different. Everything changed and I lived now far away, and in the meantime, I've realized that I took my hometown, its landmarks and its soul for granted.

But as things change, I appreciate it now, so with every visit to Sarajevo, I immerse myself into the city.
This year visit was special for quite a few reasons, and one of them was Sarajevo Cable Car. Or "Sarajevska zičara", on the Bosnian language. It was finally rebuilt, after 26 years. I say "finally", because of my selfish desire to ride it again.
I know that its restoration has never been a real priority, and of course, money would go elsewhere - who'd need a cable car, even in the Olympic City - but it did happen, in April of this year as the cable car was rebuilt.
I rode it last time either in 1990 or 1991 - maybe I will remember when that happened. I know that we went to the lookout ("Vidikovac") to escape Sarajevo fog/smog so it could be sometime in December 1991.
The cable car was opened in 1959 and it was operational until 1992 when it was destroyed in the war.
The new, modern cabin
The old cable car cabin
Sarajevo people and their guests enjoyed it for almost 33 years, and then it took 26 years to have it up and running again.

I was quite excited to experience it again. To feel the cable car, almost to travel in time - to relive moments I lived so many times in the past.
Of course, everything was new, everything was bigger, everything was "shiny". As it didn't belong here, at least not to the world I remember - but certainly, it did belong to this new Sarajevo that has gotten rebuilt.

Perhaps the strongest feeling I had once I boarded the gondola was being contented and relieved. Despite all the forces who tried very hard to destroy it (together with the city and its people), the cable car existed again, and I knew that many Sarajevo's tormentors will be riding it as if nothing happened.
When I decided to write about this Sarajevo symbol, I thought that I'd be able to write without any reference to the Sarajevo siege, but then, it seems that such a thing is not possible.


Once on the top, where the former "Vidikovac", the vista point was located, I was looking at Sarajevo. After more than a quarter of the century I was standing there, and I was happy and sad at the same time.
I was looking at the only place I've ever called home.
I was happy to be there, on Trebević mountain, where I always belonged, I was happy that now, finally, I could show Ada how my city looks like from high above.
I was sad as I remembered the violence that the city and its people were subjected to. The flow of emotions rushed through my head and my eyes changed the colour.
People say that time passage heals everything, but I believe, in some instances that is not possible.


The city was beautiful, laying and resting in the valley. I could see the old town, "Centar", "Kosevo"....Marindvor, New Town, Little Rome, the flats on the west end, and all other mountains around the city. As I could touch it with my hands.
And I would if I could.

There were quite a few people riding the gondola, and then on the top, many of them were hiking, or just walking around Vidikovac.
That was a nice sight, the sight of hope. There were parents with kids, and that reminded me to mountain days that I spent with my mom and dad.
We walked all the way to "Brus"(a place that Sarajevo people know very well), by following the ridge and passing "Dobre Vode" mountain lodge that was still in ruins. The air was fresh, and the mountain offered its silence.

Sarajevo Gondola
I felt content.Ada was happy too, she enjoyed the gondola ride, the city views and Mt.Trebević. She said that it was the same as in Banff, except the city of Sarajevo was a real city in the mountains, not just a little mountain town.

Banff Gondola
Sarajevo gondola was bigger than Banff gondola. Not in size, not in fanciness, but in meaning.
For me, it was the best cable car in the world. In my hometown.
In Sarajevo.
The city that will always be in the centre of the world and at the end of the world at the same time.