It took me some time to write again. I didn't have any inspiration for writing. The autumn has been very eventful, but I didn't have energy to use my pen.
I did upload the pictures you can see here a week after The Fortress and that's how it stayed until now.
This is an attempt to show our little climbing trip to The Fortress on September 28th, 2013. We decided to take Headwall lakes route to ascend and to descend over Chester Lake.
I took my tennis friend Amarinder for his first ascent - we met with Mike and Gennady in Canmore. There were also couple of Mike's friends, so when we started our ascent, our group consisted of 9 people.
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Beautiful morning that gave us signs of bad weather |
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This looked like a fire, and all of us were taking picture of it |
It is always breathtaking in the morning when the colours are so vivid. This morning we had lots of red colour and that meant that the rest of the day won't be that pretty.
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Map of the area |
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Advancing on Chester Lake approach |
As this post is more about pictures than words, I will keep it short. The first part of the trail is very easy, steady climb through soon to be cross-country skiing trails.
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Passing through some little obstacles |
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Moment when we saw Mt.Chester for the first time |
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Even better view |
We were advancing easily and there was no any rush. The crisp air and new fresh snow created idyllic environment. We were alone on the mountain.
I knew that these were precious moments. I was connecting with nature.
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This is where it got a bit harder |
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This is where it got windy |
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We were like little dots comparing to the mountains |
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First Headwall lake |
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We were slowly advancing, higher and higher |
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The sun was shy today |
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Snow covered rocks and made climbing harder |
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High above the first lake |
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At second Headwall Lake |
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This perfect stone protected us from strong wind |
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Second lake in its all beauty |
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Advancing farther up towards the col |
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Second Headwall lake |
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Higher and higher |
From this moment we were able to see the Fortress ridge. If there were no clouds we would've seen the col. I thought that we needed an hour, hour and half from here to reach the col.
Some of Mike's friends turned back from the second lake. There were five of us now left, attempting to reach the top.
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Probing a very thin ice |
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The col |
This is where a real climbing started. It was steep, icy, snowy. We were doing 100 steps and then we would rest. However, 100 steps became 75, and then 50 - as we were struggling navigating between rocks and snow.
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Amarinder climbing towards the col |
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Deep snow was slowing us down |
It was extremely hard to climb in these conditions, but it was still easier than our early June climb to Bourgeau. The snow was not that deep. My heart rate would climb up to 200, and I would feel as my heart was going to explode. I didn't know how Amarinder felt, but I could imagine that he was struggling too.
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Rest of our group was descending |
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Straight up is the col. To the right is The Summit. |
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So small comparing to the mountains |
On the picture above you can see three little dots. Roman, Mike and Gennady chose to gain some height on Mt.Chester and then traverse to the col.
When I saw them I didn't think that this was necessarily a good idea. I knew they would get stuck when they go higher. Unfortunately they didn't have radio so I was not able to communicate to them what might happen.
There is a whole story about their adventure, but I will not write about it in this post. Let's say that they got very lucky.
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At this moment we were not able to see them anymore |
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Exhausted Amarinder on the top of the col |
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Almost on the top of the col |
Last 100 meters to reach the col were super hard. It was slippery and steep, and my legs were tired. Still, I was thinking that this climb was much harder than Kilimanjaro.
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The Fortress ridge |
At this moment we knew that our "job" was not done. We still had to go some 400 m up and reach the summit. Without snow this would've been be much easier, but with new accumulations and with strong wind, this became a major task.
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Mt.Chester |
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View towards Chester Lake |
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We had to be careful as new cornices already formed |
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The summit was closer and closer
I was leading our ridge climb. Blowing snow and strong wind created such a challenge. There were moments when I was doing only 5 steps and I had to stop. As I was on Himalayas, on 7000 m. Amarinder was keeping up, and he was absolutely amazing, for someone who was climbing his first real mountain. My idea was to encourage him with every step and show him that he can do it.
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600 m drop (west side) |
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800 m drop (east side) |
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Amarinder struggling keeping balance on steep section |
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We were finally able to see the summit |
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Touching the summit |
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High above Rockies |
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Exposed section |
Amarinder had some doubts about reaching the top, as he was able to see through clouds how this last portion of climb was exposed. I told him that everything was ok, and everything was going to be ok.
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This is a "runner" we saw on our descent. |
It sounds crazy, but we met a guy, who was running up The Fortress. He ran up, through Chester Lake route. We talked to him on the col, he asked us how far is to go down over Headwall lakes.
This guy was some serious runner - coming here, in his running shoes, with so little clothes. Well, he was also a bit.....crazy. It was absolutely dangerous coming here by himself.
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View from the above |
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This little dot is Amarinder |
On our descent, once we passed the col, I suggested Amarinder to go first. Snow was deep here and the slope was not exposed. It was also safe from avalanches. Amarinder really smoked the slope!
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Time for break and late lunch |
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Amarinder advancing in his descent |
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One of the last views of The Fortress on this day |
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It cleared out a bit |
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One more view of The Fortress |
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The Fortress was still in clouds |
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Chester Lake |
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Again, beautiful colours, at the end of the day |
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Passing Chester Lake |
If you are a mountaineer you'll know that it is always harder going downhill. This time was not different. We even thought that we somehow missed the trail.
It was hard to follow all (boring) switchbacks, and our knees were complaining.
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This is what The Fortress would do to you :) |
At the end, we were happy that we were done, and also we were sad that our little Fortress adventure was over.
I was happy as I connected to the nature again and that I defied new normal of 21st century.
And I did it on my own way.