Saturday, November 16, 2013

Mt.Fortress

It took me some time to write again. I didn't have any inspiration for writing. The autumn has been very eventful, but I didn't have energy to use my pen.
I did upload the pictures you can see here a week after The Fortress and that's how it stayed until now.

This is an attempt to show our little climbing trip to The Fortress on September 28th, 2013. We decided to take Headwall lakes route to ascend and to descend over Chester Lake.
I took my tennis friend Amarinder for his first ascent - we met with Mike and Gennady in Canmore. There were also couple of Mike's friends, so when we started our ascent, our group consisted of 9 people.

Beautiful morning that gave us signs of bad weather
This looked like a fire, and all of us were taking picture of it
It is always breathtaking in the morning when the colours are so vivid. This morning we had lots of red colour and that meant that the rest of the day won't be that pretty.

Map of the area
Advancing on Chester Lake approach
As this post is more about pictures than words, I will keep it short. The first part of the trail is very easy, steady climb through soon to be cross-country skiing trails.

Passing through some little obstacles
Moment when we saw Mt.Chester for the first time
Even better view
We were advancing easily and there was no any rush. The crisp air and new fresh snow created idyllic environment. We were alone on the mountain.
I knew that these were precious moments. I was connecting with nature.

This is where it got a bit harder
This is where it got windy
We were like little dots comparing to the mountains

First Headwall lake
We were slowly advancing, higher and higher
The sun was shy today
Snow covered rocks and made climbing harder
High above the first lake
At second Headwall Lake
This perfect stone protected us from strong wind
Second lake in its all beauty
Advancing farther up towards the col
Second Headwall lake
Higher and higher
From this moment we were able to see the Fortress ridge. If there were no clouds we would've seen the col. I thought that we needed an hour, hour and half from here to reach the col.
Some of Mike's friends turned back from the second lake. There were five of us now left, attempting to reach the top.
Probing a very thin ice
The col
This is where a real climbing started. It was steep, icy, snowy. We were doing 100 steps and then we would rest. However, 100 steps became 75, and then 50 - as we were struggling navigating between rocks and snow.
Amarinder climbing towards the col
Deep snow was slowing us down
It was extremely hard to climb in these conditions, but it was still easier than our early June climb to Bourgeau. The snow was not that deep. My heart rate would climb up to 200, and I would feel as my heart was going to explode. I didn't know how Amarinder felt, but I could imagine that he was struggling too.

Rest of our group was descending
Straight up is the col. To the right is The Summit.
So small comparing to the mountains
On the picture above you can see three little dots. Roman, Mike and Gennady chose to gain some height on Mt.Chester and then traverse to the col.
When I saw them I didn't think that this was necessarily a good idea. I knew they would get stuck when they go higher. Unfortunately they didn't have radio so I was not able to communicate to them what might happen.
There is a whole story about their adventure, but I will not write about it in this post. Let's say that they got very lucky.
At this moment we were not able to see them anymore
Exhausted Amarinder on the top of the col
Almost on the top of the col
Last 100 meters to reach the col were super hard. It was slippery and steep, and my legs were tired. Still, I was thinking that this climb was much harder than Kilimanjaro.
The Fortress ridge
At this moment we knew that our "job" was not done. We still had to go some 400 m up and reach the summit. Without snow this would've been be much easier, but with new accumulations and with strong wind, this became a major task.
Mt.Chester
View towards Chester Lake
We had to be careful as new cornices already formed
The summit was closer and closer

I was leading our ridge climb. Blowing snow and strong wind created such a challenge. There were moments when I was doing only 5 steps and I had to stop. As I was on Himalayas, on 7000 m. Amarinder was keeping up, and he was absolutely amazing, for someone who was climbing his first real mountain. My idea was to encourage him with every step and show him that he can do it.
600 m drop (west side)
800 m drop (east side)
Amarinder struggling keeping balance on steep section
We were finally able to see the summit
Touching the summit
High above Rockies
Exposed section
Amarinder had some doubts about reaching the top, as he was able to see through clouds how this last portion of climb was exposed. I told him that everything was ok, and everything was going to be ok.

This is a "runner" we saw on our descent.
It sounds crazy, but we met a guy, who was running up The Fortress. He ran up, through Chester Lake route. We talked to him on the col, he asked us how far is to go down over Headwall lakes.
This guy was some serious runner - coming here, in his running shoes, with so little clothes. Well, he was also a bit.....crazy. It was absolutely dangerous coming here by himself.

View from the above
This little dot is Amarinder
On our descent, once we passed the col, I suggested Amarinder to go first. Snow was deep here and the slope was not exposed. It was also safe from avalanches. Amarinder really smoked the slope!

Time for break and late lunch
Amarinder advancing in his descent
One of the last views of The Fortress on this day
It cleared out a bit
One more view of The Fortress
The Fortress was still in clouds
Chester Lake

Again, beautiful colours, at the end of the day
Passing Chester Lake
If you are a mountaineer you'll know that it is always harder going downhill. This time was not different. We even thought that we somehow missed the trail.
It was hard to follow all (boring) switchbacks, and our knees were complaining.

This is what The Fortress would do to you  :)
At the end, we were happy that we were done, and also we were sad that our little Fortress adventure was over.
I was happy as I connected to the nature again and that I defied new normal of 21st century.
And I did it on my own way.